As you've probably heard, Colombia is dangerous. Colombia is home to the murder capital of the world, drug lords, and shootouts. Colombia is the home of Pablo Escobar's Medellín Cartel and their successors, the Godfathers of Calí. A place of civil war between the Colombian government and paramilitary groups.

Except, the Colombia we see portrayed in films, TV, and the media represents a Colombia that doesn't exist anymore. Though your family may wince at the mention of traveling to Colombia, and though the success of Netflix's Narcos may have reinforced prejudices, things here have changed.

Today, tourism in Colombia is booming, becoming the poster child for travel in Latin America. The country's pristine coastlines, lost cities, national parks, sprawling metropolises, and abundance of history mean that the tourism industry in Colombia is one of the fastest-growing globally.

Even in the early 2000s, Colombia was a dangerous place, one of the most dangerous places to travel, with one of the highest homicide rates in the world. But, in the last 20 years, Colombia has worked tirelessly to shake its international reputation for violence and cocaine while creating peace after 50 years of conflict.

The stigmas that have choked Colombia's international reputation are outdated.

The days of Colombia's mega cartels are over. The Colombian government's peace treaty with the FARC paramilitaries in 2016 has proved monumental. Kidnappings and homicides have been in free fall. Gun violence is increasingly rare, 15 times lower than gun violence in the United States. And just for context, in 2017, the Colombian capital – Bogotá – saw less violent crime than cities such as Miami and Florida. Even the poverty rate, which stood at 50% in 2002, dropped to 29% in 2019 and continues to drop by 3% annually. All the while, Colombia's GDP has increased five times over since the '80s.

With those improvements, the motivations behind Colombia's troubled past are fading from memory.

It's not perfect, but it's a far cry from the Colombia that your parents remember.

So, just how much has Colombia changed? How safe is it for backpackers, and what risks still exist?

The Cartels

The mega-cartels of yesteryear are but a distant nightmare and a topic that most Colombians steer clear of.

Even so, to say that Colombia's war on drugs is over would be a lie. Small-time traffickers are still active, especially near Colombia's borders with Panama, Venezuela, and Ecuador. But these traffickers are a drop in the ocean compared to the cartels of the '80s and '90s.

Though official figures are few and far between, it is estimated that most serious crimes – such as gun violence and kidnapping – occur between rival traffickers.

The best way to avoid the risk that traffickers present in Colombia today is to stay away from them, which means keeping your distance from Colombia's international borders. If you are moving from Colombia into Ecuador, only use the Rumicacha border a kilometer down the road from Ipiales. In addition, just avoid getting involved with drugs; if you do, you're asking for trouble.

The FARC and Other Paramilitary Groups

After several decades of civil war, costing an estimated 200,000 lives and the displacement of millions, Colombia's government and the FARC paramilitary agreed to peace in 2016. A major landmark that looks to kickstart a new era for Colombia.

Since the respective falls of the Medellín and Calí cartels, the far left-wing FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) have been Colombia's greatest cause of instability.

The peace deal is massive, taking violence off the streets and demobilizing most of the country's paramilitary presence.

To be clear, there are still small pockets of guerillas in Colombia. However, they are based in the country's most remote regions, and your chances of being targeted are infinitesimally small.

Petty Crime

This is the biggest problem that travelers encounter in Colombia today. When we talk about petty crime, we're talking about muggings and pickpocketing.

Muggings are increasingly rare. When muggings do occur, they're usually at knifepoint, with firearm-aided mugging becoming rarer by the year. We recommend avoiding walking alone at night, especially in Colombia's big cities. This is when and where most muggings occur. Official statistics from 2017 report Colombia's robbery rate at 244.4 cases per 100,000 people. It seems like a high figure, but it's worth pointing out that Colombia puts robberies, theft, and pickpocketing under the same label when recording these figures.

Pickpocketing is a lot more common than muggings. It occurs in busy public spaces, public transport, bars, and restaurants. If you want to avoid losing your valuables, you must take precautions.

Colombians have a great saying about avoiding pickpockets and mugging: 'No dar Papaya' – translating to 'don't give papaya,' or don't give something sweet. This means that you shouldn't flash something sweet out in the open because it's only in doing so that you'll become a target. So:

• Keep your valuables hidden away in public.

• Don't flash your cash when out and about.

• Don't wear headphones in public.

• Don't get your phone out unless you're in a group or restaurant.

• Don't leave valuables in your back pocket.

• Don't get complacent the more time you spend in Colombia without incident.

No dar Papaya is a warning to not put yourself in a position where others can take advantage of you. Follow that advice, and you'll probably be okay. The vast majority of stories you'll hear about muggings and pickpocketing from other travelers will be because they broke the golden rule and gave papaya.

Spiking

Spiking has become a noteworthy issue in Colombia over recent years. There has been an increase in a chemical called Scopolamine, or Devil's breath, being used to rob victims in these major cities. Scopolamine is a chemical derived from the Scopolia plant, which grows in the mountains around Bogotá and Colombia's Magdalena region.

Would-be robbers use Scopolamine to induce amnesia and hallucinations in their victims. It also makes victims more suggestible to the criminal's demands. This usually means emptying their bank account or handing over their phone.

Once consumed, victims will experience disorientation, paranoia, and hallucinations. The chemical then hijacks the part of the brain that forms short-term memories, meaning the victim will wake up the next morning without recollection of the incident.

In very high doses, Scopolamine can cause respiratory failure and death. In addition, it's tasteless and odorless, making it easy to lace drinks, cigarettes, and food with the chemical. It's a pretty scary substance.

About 50,000 cases of Scopolamine soakings are reported in Colombia each year. That seems like a very scary number. But when you put it in the context of Colombia's population of around 50 million, it's actually only 1 case per 100,000 people. Moreover, all traces of Scopolamine leave the body 12 hours after being consumed, which brings the accuracy of retrospective reporting into question.

Most of the time, victims of Scopolamine spiking are young men perceived to be wealthy, often targeted by young women in clubs and bars. In 94% of reported Scopolamine spiking, robbing the victim is the motive.

If you're worried about Scopolamine spiking, there are a couple of steps you can take to reduce the risk of being targeted:

• Never leave your food or drinks unattended.

• Never accept drinks or cigarettes from a stranger.

• Avoid going to bars or clubs alone.

• Do not leave bars or clubs with strangers.

Civil Unrest

Political protest, as we know it, is a relatively new phenomenon in Colombia.

Now that the Colombian government has made peace with the FARC, long-standing societal issues have bubbled to the surface.

In 2018, students from public and private universities protested a lack of funding for public education. Then, in 2019-20, further protests rocked Bogotá as protestors vented at the slow roll-out of the peace deal with the FARC.

In April 2021, the Colombian government proposed a major tax reform to combat economic losses caused by COVID-19. With millions already struggling to make ends meet because of the pandemic, the tax reform sparked outrage, and protestors mobilized across the country. The proposed tax reform was withdrawn days later. After the tax reform was withdrawn, protestors turned their attention to structural inequality, poverty, land reform, health care, and a lack of education and opportunity.

As the protests wore on, violent clashes between protestors and police drew international condemnation. Police brutality was added to the protestors' list of grievances. By late May 2021, Colombia's police faced accusations of indiscriminate beatings, killings, and sexual violence aimed at protestors. Colombia's human rights ombudsman declared that 58 civilians were killed during the protests, including 12 protesters gunned down in Calí on May 28th, 2021.

The police force today is the same one that fought on the front lines in the war on drugs and against the FARC, and it shows. Colombia's police forces now face extensive reform.

Bogotá

Bogotá's days of widespread murder and violence are firmly in the city's rear view. And As we've already mentioned, 2017 saw Bogotá record less violent crime than major U.S. cities such as Miami and Florida.

But, street crime is still a big problem in Bogotá, as is Scopolamine spiking.

Street crime is more prevalent in certain neighborhoods, like the upmarket Chapinero neighborhood.

Similarly, La Candelaria – the gringolandia of Bogotá – sees high rates of street crime compared to the rest of the city, particularly after dark. We wouldn't recommend wandering La Candelaria on foot at night.

In addition, 20% of all robberies in Bogotá occur on the Transmilenio, Bogotá's public transport system. If heading back to your hostel after dark, we recommend skipping the Transmilenio and hailing an Uber.

Scopolamine spikings are more prevalent in the Zona Rosa neighborhood, the center of Bogotá's nightlife and home to the city's best restaurants, bars, and clubs. Though the area has one of the biggest police presence in the capital, we recommend being vigilant.

Medellín

The former murder capital of the world. Today, Medellín is a city reborn.

A thriving cosmopolitan metropolis, pinned as one of the most progressive in South America and hailed as the world's most innovative city in 2013.

Poverty has decreased by 96% across the city. The homicide rate has dropped from 381 to 23 per 100,000. Every year, $500 million is given to the people of Medellín to oversee social development projects.

It's a city that looks towards the future with hope rather than fear of the past.

But, like most big cities, concerns remain. Though safer than many cities in the US, a strong gang presence remains in Medellín – estimated to number some 5,000 individuals. But don't let that scare you off. The chances of being targeted are very remote, and most violence occurring in the city is inter-gang related.

Medellín's public transportation system is one of the best on the continent. However, as with public transport systems in Bogotá, you need to be mindful of pickpocketers.

Historically, Medellín has quite a reputation, and if you are a little apprehensive about your visit to the city, we might recommend staying in the neighborhood of Laureles. Though not the most popular neighborhood in the city, it is one of the safest. It's quieter and more pedestrian-friendly while still within arm's length of the city's best tourist spots.

Calí

There's no getting away from the fact that Calí is statistically Colombia's most dangerous city.

But then, it's hardly surprising that Colombia's third-largest city lags behind the rest of the country. The Calí cartel – heir to Escobar's throne – didn't officially fall until 2006. Also, Calí is close to the main area of the armed conflict between the FARC and the Colombian government.

With the legacy of the Godfathers of Calí in recent memory and with 2016's peace agreement with the FARC still coming into full effect, Calí remains in the world's 30 most dangerous cities for murder per capita.

Like Bogotá and Medellín, Calí has issues with petty theft and scams. These are most prominent in the city's eastern neighborhoods, Manuela, Beltran, Aguablanca, and Palmira. We recommend avoiding these neighborhoods completely. Outside of them, keep valuables out of sight in public spaces.

When departing Calí, if heading south towards Pasto or Ipiales, book with a reputable bus company. This route is one of the few in Colombia where highway robberies happen, albeit rarely.

There's a lot of doom and gloom here, but Calí's economy is one of the fastest-growing in the country. It presents hope to those who might otherwise turn to a life of petty crime and theft, and we expect things to change for the better quickly.

Cartagena

The crown jewel of Colombia's Caribbean Coast. Cartagena is one of the most beautiful cities in Colombia, crammed with UNESCO world heritage sites, towering fortresses, great beaches, and some of the best-preserved Spanish architecture in the country.

It's also one of Colombia's safest cities for tourists. This is partly due to most of Cartagena's tourist hotspots being physically separated from the rest of the city. Backpackers usually find themselves wandering the streets of BocaGrande, Castillogrande, El Centro, and Getsemaní. You'll find most of the city's hostels in these neighborhoods, and there is a strong police presence.

However, not all of Cartagena's best attractions are in these neighborhoods. Unmissable spots, such as the best views in the city atop Convento de Santa Cruz de la Popa, require braving Cartagena's dicier neighborhoods. To do that, we recommend hiring an Uber.

In addition, pickpocketing and theft are quite common on Cartagena's sandy beaches. Always keep an eye on your belongings.

Don’t Give papaya!

Colombia's golden rule keeps you safe from the most serious threat to travelers – muggings and theft. Don't show off anything sweet that might make you a target, whether your phone, a fancy camera, jewelry – anything really. And never get complacent the longer you spend in Colombia without incident.

Never walk Around By Yourself At Night

Guy or girl, the same rules apply here. Especially in Colombia's major cities. If you need to head back to your hostel or Airbnb after dark, book a taxi – preferably an Uber. Public transport at night can be a big no-no in big cities. In the same vein, never withdraw cash from an ATM on the street at night. It'll make you a criminal's golden ticket to some fast cash.

Learn Spanish

A basic grasp of the local lingo will help you so much. Need directions? You can ask a friendly local. Need help? Just ask. The vast majority of Colombians are so friendly and happy to help. This really is essential.

Say No to Drugs

The narcotics trade has caused many problems and pain for the average Colombian. Engaging in the drug trade as a tourist is insulting. Not only that, but it's a surefire way of getting into trouble. After all, most violent crime in Colombia is still attributed to the drug trade.

Don’t Accept Drinks or Cigarettes From A Stranger

In Colombia's big cities, spiking is a problem. Especially if Scopolamine, known as the Devil's Breath, is involved. This potent chemical is tasteless and odorless, making it easy to spike drinks and lace tobacco. Never accept drinks or cigarettes from a stranger in Colombia unless you want to be robbed.

Know Your Limits With Alcohol

This goes without saying. Getting merry is all good, but the last thing you want is to wander around a big city you're unfamiliar with while blackout drunk. You're also much more likely to hang out with people you'd steer clear from in ordinary circumstances.

Be Mindful of Your Belongings In Crowds

With pickpocketing and theft the biggest risk you're likely to face in Colombia, this couldn't be more important. Never leave your belongings unattended on public transport, a coach service, or just wandering about town. Keep a lock on your daypack, and make sure it's made from a material that can withstand a slash and grab. Even in hostels, always leave your belongings in a security locker. Travelers are far too trusting of one another. This may all sound a bit paranoid, and it might well be, but better safe than sorry.

Buy Travel Insurance

The topic of pickpocketing brings us nicely to Travel Insurance, which couldn't be more essential in Colombia. Travel insurance won't fully compensate you for your most valuable items, but it's better than nothing. In worst-case scenarios, you'll be thankful for not paying a penny on medical expenses. It keeps your ass covered. Enough said.

Be Sensible With Your Cash

This could mean a couple of precautions. First and foremost, keep a decoy wallet on you, preferably with a card you don't use and any loose pesos you have chucked in there. Second, wear a money belt to keep what serious cash you have on you safe and sound. Third and finally, never have all your cash on you at once. Plan what you need for the day before setting out with what you need – leave debit and credit cards at your hostel when you can.

Keep a backup Phone Handy

We're all partial to our phones these days, and the worst nightmare for many is having their shiny new iPhone stolen. Mobile phone theft dominates Colombia, so we recommend carrying a shittier backup. Keep your actual phone safe, somewhere that isn't obvious, and your backup phone where you can immediately grab it. Phone dummies are a good and even cheaper alternative here.

If You Are Robbed, Don’t Resist

For the love of God, don't resist. This is why you have travel insurance. And fighting to keep your phone or wallet isn't worth putting yourself in harm's way. If you follow the advice above, handing over a decoy wallet or a backup phone shouldn't be much of an issue.

Stay in The Know

With protests and civil unrest increasing in Colombia over recent years, it's worth staying in the loop with the goings-on in the country. This also goes for activities like hiking. For example, you plan to explore the Los Nevados National Park and its volcanos, so check seismic activity beforehand. Things can change quickly, but you can be prepared and alter plans accordingly.

Research before Signing Up For Anything

Essential for pretty much any service you plan to spend your money on. Always look online for reviews. Doing so will give you a heads up that what you're about to pay for might be a scam or just isn't safe. This is pretty essential for guided tours and long-haul coach journeys.

Stay Somewhere With 24-Hour Security

In amongst the promise of swimming pools and daily happy hours, you should always look for this when booking your hostel. If you're in a spot of bother, need help with something, or have concerns about your safety, having a friendly face to talk to 24/7 is invaluable.

Keep A Photocopy Of Your Passport

Okay, so not strictly a safety tip. But carrying some form of identification with you is required by law in Colombia. If you get stopped by the police for any reason, you'll be thankful you had a copy of your passport handy. Most hostels will be happy to print out a passport copy for you. Needless to say, if you take your actual passport out with you and lose it, you're in a world of shit.

The Stigma of Solo Female Travel

As a woman, telling people that you're planning a solo backpacking trip draws concerns for your welfare. Tell them you're going to Colombia; outdated conceptions of the country will make them fear you're embarking on a crazy suicide mission.

Their concern, valid or otherwise, is enough to make anyone feel daunted and a little freaked out.

There is a fine line between advising caution and sowing fear, making discussions on safety tricky. We want to make you aware of what dangers you might realistically face as a solo female backpacker in Colombia rather than put you off.

Excluding the risk of pickpocketing and theft, Colombia is pretty safe for travelers these days. Sadly, there are some extra rules to live by for women wandering Colombia.

The Situation In Colombia

For women traveling solo, there is always a risk of harassment or assault. This extends to Colombia. Like many Latin American countries, Colombia is a very macho society. This means that some behaviors deemed unacceptable back home – such as catcalling and wolf-whistles – are a societal norm. It's not right, but not much can be done about it. Most Colombian women take the approach of ignoring it.

This sort of behavior also finds its way into Colombia's nightlife, with harassment prevalent in bars and clubs – though assault is statistically rare.

Hostels are a great place to meet like-minded travelers and are a mainstay of a memorable trip. But not every woman will be cool with sharing dorm rooms with a bunch of random guys.

If that sounds like you, you'll be happy to hear that female-only dorm rooms are common in Colombia. And though some are inexplicably pricier than a mixed dorm, many have some essentials – a la hairdryer, make-up mirror – that you wouldn't find in a mixed dorm.

Safety Tips For SOLO FEMALE TRAVELERs In Colombia

Going Back to Basics

Going back to basics, some precautions you might take backpacking in Colombia will be the same as precautions you'd take back home.

• Trust your gut. Get out of there if you feel uncomfortable or sense things are sketchy.

• Say no. You don't owe strangers shit, and your politeness is not a given.

• Find a buddy. You're safer in groups and less likely to be approached if around others.

• Hide your cash and not all of it in one place. Empty lipstick containers or even inside a tampon applicator are some sneaky spots.

Additional Precautions for Travel in Colombia

Additional precautions that we recommend for women traveling solo in Colombia include:

• Research destinations before traveling there. If there are security concerns for women, consider skipping it. Forward planning is the name of the game.

• The nightlife in Colombia is amazing. But, as we've already touched on, if traveling alone, you may be aggressively targeted in clubs and bars. Assault is rare, but harassment is prevalent. Do a whip-round at your hostel to find people who'll go out with you, and always keep an eye on your drink.

• Be mindful of what you're drinking. That's not to say you shouldn't go out and have fun. Just know your limits. You don't want to be wandering a big unfamiliar city blackout drunk. Or even worse, blackout drunk hanging out with sketchy strangers.

• For the love of God, don't just hail a taxi off the street. Many will be unlicensed and are scams and robberies waiting to happen. Always book an Uber or another dedicated taxi app that logs your journey and driver details.

• Your phone is your best friend. Get a SIM card with data the moment you land in Colombia. Make sure your phone's charged and keep a power bank on you. Share your location with friends or family. Learn how to use your phone's SOS function.

• Always check the reviews when booking a hostel. If you're trusting a 2-year-old review from George, 35, as the final word in women's safety at a hostel, you're doing it wrong.

• Try not to look like a lost tourist. You're more likely to be targeted if you don't look confident or comfortable.

The Bottom Line

Colombia is not the ideal destination for solo female backpackers. But on the whole, it's pretty safe these days, so long as you stay street smart, keep your wits about you, and follow the advice above.

A lot of what's written above sounds pretty negative, but Colombians are very friendly. International tourism means so much to them. They'll always be happy to help you if you need some assistance with anything. So don't be afraid to ask for help if you need it.

In addition, there are some great online communities dedicated to giving advice and support to solo female travelers. If you join these communities, you'll find great tips and first-hand experiences for staying as safe as possible in Colombia.

The Situation In Colombia

Colombia is the most LGBTQ+ friendly country in South America's Andean region. The country's capital city, Bogotá, is the third-largest LGBTQ+ hub in South America – behind Rio de Janeiro in Brazil and Buenos Aires in Argentina.

LGBTQ+ Travelers traveling to Colombia will be delighted by the nightlife – with dedicated hubs filled with some of the country's best and biggest clubs in Bogotá and Medellín. And with no restrictions on the organization of LGBTQ+ events in Colombia, there are some great events during pride month – especially in Medellín.

In terms of legislation and the law, there are no legal restrictions on same-sex sexual relationships in Colombia. In fact, Colombia is one of the only countries in Latin America where same-sex marriage is legalized. In addition, the Colombian government has been proactive in introducing measures that increase the protection of LGBTQ+ persons.

With all that said, there are reports of abuse and discrimination towards LGBTQ+ persons based on their sexual orientation and gender identity, with legal protections not always upheld.

Safety tips for LGBTQ+ Travelers In Colombia

No matter where you go, there will always be the odd bigot who can't accept someone different from themselves. In Colombia, which is still a very macho society, encountering the odd narrow-minded idiot is a given. To stay safe, we have some tips to follow in addition to those listed above. 

• Keep physical affection behind closed doors. While Colombia's major cities are incredibly welcoming and accommodating to LGBTQ+ travelers, rural destinations are more conservative. It's in these areas where we recommend exercising caution.

• Be careful with dating apps. They're a proven way of finding sex or love on the road. However, there have been reports of vigilantes luring LGBTQ+ travelers into unsavory situations best avoided.

The bottom Line

Your experience of Colombia as an LGBTQ+ traveler will depend on how you identify and your presentation of that gender.

Somewhere along the road, you'll encounter an idiot. But by and large, the people of Colombia will welcome you, and if traveling as a couple, your partner, with open arms.

If looking to connect with like-minded locals or travelers, a quick Facebook search will bring up plenty of groups full of events throughout the country.

For more information on LGBTQ+ legislation in Colombia, check out this awesome graphic on the best countries for LGBTQ+ travelers.

The Situation In Colombia

In 2005, a census reported that 6.4% of Colombia's population lives with a disability. More recent estimates put that figure closer to 15% – about 7 million people.

In recent years, Colombia has made great strides toward recognizing and rectifying the barriers faced by persons with disabilities. Particularly in regards to social inclusion and accessibility to public services and infrastructure.

Despite the progress, much work must be done to achieve parity between disabled and non-disabled persons. While services to accommodate those physical disabilities are pretty good in the country's major cities, this does not extend to more remote and rural destinations.

Additionally, there are many barriers to achieving full social inclusion. Many manifest in family, social, and labor settings – despite discrimination against disabled persons being a criminal offense in Colombia.

Regarding the safety of disabled travelers, our 'Top 15 tips for staying safe in Colombia' are all relevant. However, it's worth acknowledging negative social paradigms and stereotypes about disability in Colombia, which makes you more of a target for petty crime and theft.

Accessibility in Colombia

Colombia's Ministry of Health and Social Protection aims to eliminate discrimination and marginalization, provide equal opportunities, and give access to social, cultural, political, and economic spaces throughout Colombia. And it's made great headway towards reaching those goals. Many have reacted to new legislation set out to meet new standards. Still, the full implementation of the new legislation is taking a long time. The Colombian government cites a lack of knowledge regarding new regulations and a lack of means to effectively monitor their implementation as reasons for slow progress.

The best way to evaluate the accessibility situation is to report the experiences of disabled persons in Colombia.

• 45% of disabled persons in Colombia report the state of roads presents barriers to full and equal participation in daily life.

• 28% of disabled persons in Colombia report the condition of sidewalks presents barriers to full and equal participation in daily life.

• 18% of disabled persons in Colombia report that their place of work presents barriers to full and equal participation in daily life.

• 17% of disabled persons in Colombia report that access to health centers presents barriers to full and equal participation in daily life

• 15% of disabled persons in Colombia report access to schools and education present barriers to full and equal participation in daily life.

Source: Disability and Social Inclusion in Colombia 

In addition to this, there is a distinct stigma and lack of access to health care for mental disabilities and mental illness throughout Colombian society.

The Bottom Line

Colombia is a long way from being an ideal travel destination for those with disabilities.

Though the country has come a long way in improving accessibility throughout the county with new legislation, effective implementation is a while away.

Similarly, while discrimination against physical and mental illness is a criminal offense in Colombia, this isn't always enforced. Breaking those social paradigms is proving difficult.

Individuals with restricted mobility will struggle in Colombia. While many public transport systems are good for accessibility, overcrowding will make trips unpleasant. Also, most taxis are restricted in their space for bulky items such as wheelchairs. Moreover, many restaurants, especially outside of Colombia's major cities, lack the basic facilities for wheelchair users.

With the issues around accessibility, we can't recommend that those who face issues with their mobility travel to Colombia without company. Even those with mental disabilities should be wary of traveling alone.

Outside commentators describe Colombia as progressive with minority rights, hailing the country as multicultural and multiethnic.

For a long time, the state believed there was no racism in Colombia. They believed Colombia's history had facilitated a unique mixing of races and cultures to create an egalitarian society where racism is non-existent.

The Colombian government was so confident in this that between 1998-2008, the country failed to report to the UN committee for the elimination of racial discrimination. An obligation in most parts of the world. Furthermore, the government denounced racism's existence at every opportunity, using high-level public officials as a mouthpiece.

Afro-Colombians have indeed had a tremendous influence on the country's art, music, and culture. Colombia has some incredible festivals celebrating the country's diversity, such as the UNESCO-listed le Carnaval de Negros y Blancos. In addition, racism has been a criminal offense in Colombia since 2011.

And yet, racism and discrimination are grave issues. Issues that began with a denial that discrimination could exist in the Colombian state or society. The truth is that Colombia does celebrate its diversity. But nowhere near enough is done to support and uplift individuals who belong to those celebrated cultures.

The Ethnography of Colombia

The most recent census of Colombia's population – carried out in 2018 – indicates that:

• 40% are white Colombians

• 46.7% are Mestizos (individuals of mixed Amerindian indigenous and white heritage)

• 9.34% are Afro-Colombian

• 3.96% are Indigenous

However, publically-acknowledged failings in data gathering have led to calls of misrepresentation amongst Afro-Colombians. Projections from more detailed surveys pin the true percentage as closer to 18% of Colombia's population. Some scholars believe that the true figure may even be 25% of the population. Whatever the truth, we know Colombia has the third-highest number of Afro-descendants in the Americas and the highest number in Hispanic America. 

Racism in Colombia

Many Mestizos identify as white, so to truly understand racism in Colombia, you need to turn to the indigenous and Afro-Colombian communities.

Afro-Colombians

There seems to be a collective perception toward Afro-Colombians, depicting them as an 'enemy' of economic progress in Colombia. A quick flick through local tv channels or magazines will make the representation, or lack thereof, abundantly clear, with most media pushing a eurocentric depiction of the country.

These attitudes manifest in the country's major cities of Bogotá, Medellín, and Calí especially; and the rest of the country on a lesser scale.

In Calí, which has one of the largest Afro-Colombian presences in the country, there is evidence of segregation in the city's population of 2.5 million.

Meanwhile, Afro-Colombians living in the Pacific regions, specifically the Choco – where 90% of the population are Afro-Colombians – face what can only be described as state abandonment.

The reality for Afro-Colombians is that they are the nation's worst-affected demographic for: 

• Reduced life expectancy

• Infant mortality

• Hunger

• Literacy

• income-disparity

• Unemployment

• Poverty

• Police stops

• Lack of healthcare access

• Lack of education access

• Representation in Colombia's high courts

The Colombian government will say that many of these issues result from living in regions that aren't considered hospitable. The reality is systemic racism, neglect, and inequality.

Indigenous Peoples

Colombia's indigenous peoples are scattered across 104 distinct groups. 39 are currently on the verge of extinction.

The indigenous peoples of Colombia are politically, physically, and culturally isolated from the rest of the country, in part by the design of the Colombian government.

However, when four million people speak out against the urbanization and mining of their lands, demanding what is rightfully theirs, it makes Colombians uncomfortable.

Some more so than others, it seems. Between 2016 and June 2020, there has been an increase in violence toward Colombia's indigenous communities. The upturn in violence saw 269 indigenous leaders assassinated and very little justice served by Colombia's police force.

The Bottom Line

The struggle against racism in Colombia is not new. But 2020's Black Lives Matter Protests sparked a new nationwide conversation about the place of race and discrimination within Colombian society.

Now, we know all of that was pretty heavy. You may even be thinking that experiencing discrimination yourself is almost a given; such is the sorry state of inequality and inequity in Colombia.

But, discrimination against foreign travelers is rare in Colombia, regardless of race.

If approached on the streets of Colombia, the second anyone realizes that you're traveling from abroad, they'll change their tune to one of enthusiasm and respect. It'd be heart-warming if it weren't such a sad symbol of how Colombians regard their Afro-Colombian population.

In any case, we recommend being cautious around police, with Afro-Colombians stopped 15% more often than white or Mestizo people. And more generally, an awareness of the structural racism and social paradigms prevalent in Colombia is recommended.

Colombia's tourism sector is one of the fastest-growing globally. The country has become the new golden child of travel in Latin America.

With the days of Colombia's mega cartels behind them and with the vast majority of Colombia's paramilitary presence disbanding following the historic peace agreement signed in 2016, Colombia is statistically safe to visit today.

The country has become so popular that it gains a new immigrant every 18 minutes and is a major hub for digital nomads, expats, and major tech companies.

Yet, to call Colombia 100% safe would be a lie.

Solo-female travelers should be cautious of the country's macho culture, staying street smart and cautious wherever possible.

LGBTQ+ persons are generally welcomed but should be wary of showing affection in public spaces, especially in the country's more conservative rural regions.

The country is not suitable for solo disabled travelers, with complex social paradigms about disability still prevalent and a greater risk of petty crime and theft, not to mention issues with accessibility outside major cities.

But on the whole, backpackers depart Colombia without incident and only positive things to say. If you travel smart, trust your gut, stay cautious at night, and don't give papaya, you'll join them in leaving Colombia without incident.

With so much going for it, it would be a shame to miss Colombia because of the stories you've heard and the country's depiction in popular media. Colombia is a country of beautiful beaches, coffee, paradisiacal islands, mountainous national parks, breathtaking metropolises, and some of the friendliest people in the world. That's the memory of Colombia that you should take with you after your travels.