Pasto doesn't make it onto most people's Colombia itinerary. Instead, travelers adopt Pasto as a stopover before crossing into Ecuador.

It's understandable. On the surface, San Juan de Pasto is quite plain. But dig a little deeper, and you'll find that Pasto offers plenty to warrant your attention for at least a few days.

Located within the Atriz valley of the Nariño department, towered over by the looming Volcan Galeras, Pasto is one of the oldest towns in Colombia.

In days past, Pasto was the theological center of Colombia, which explains the dozens of churches scattered throughout the city.

While charming, Pasto and its population of 400,000 have little to offer for the adventurous backpacker. Aside from visiting churches, cafes, and restaurants, that is.

Outside of town, however, is a different story. Surrounding Pasto is vast Andean mountains, where you'll find breathtaking lakes, indigenous villages, and unique culture – the likes of which you won't find elsewhere in Colombia.

Being so close to the border with Ecuador, Andean culture spills over into Pasto, giving the city a set of distinct quirks. Typifying that uniqueness is Pasto's local delicacy, Cuy – or guinea pig to you and me; a dish more traditional to Ecuador and Peru than Colombia.

So how does one get to Pasto?

If you're coming from Calí, the world's salsa capital, your journey will be straightforward. From Calí, you can catch a direct bus with Transipiales for 70,000 COP. Transipiales is an operator offering daily departures between 7:30 AM and 10:00 PM. However, as the journey is a lengthy 10 hours and 30 minutes, we recommend departing later to travel overnight.

If you're heading to Pasto from San Agustín, your journey will be more complicated. From San Agustín you'll have to catch two connecting buses. One from the Pitalito and the other from Mocoa. All in all, you can expect the journey to cost 115,000 COP.

Disclaimer: This article may contain affiliate links, and we may earn a small commission should you use them, for which we are incredibly grateful. However, the recommendations are still our own and intended to advise on the very best experiences Pasto has to offer.

Visit Las Lajas Sanctuary

A highlight of any visit to Pasto and a great way to break up a border crossing into Ecuador, the Las Lajas sanctuary is the most beautiful church in Colombia. It regularly makes its way into lists of the most beautiful church in the world.

But I’ve already seen hundreds of churches in Colombia. What’s so special about this one?

We hear you, so allow us to give context. In 1745, following a miracle, the Las Lajas Sanctuary was founded.

One night, a woman named Maria and her deaf daughter sought refuge from a great storm in a valley overlooking the Guaitara River – where the church is found today.

Amidst the boulders where the pair took shelter, the daughter cried out that she could see a lightning-illuminated silhouette of the Virgin Mary over a rock. Later that year, the first pilgrimage to the Las Lajas cave was made, and a chapel was built shortly after.

Today, domestic and international tourists make that same pilgrimage, though the structure seen today has changed beyond recognition compared to the original chapel of 1754.

Today's 100-meter monolith was constructed between 1916 and 1949 on a cliff face overlooking the river below. The original image on the stone is still visible at the back of the church.

It's free to enter the church and roam its surrounding trails. However, there is a small fee to check out the church's dedicated museum.

Up close, it's difficult to truly capture this stunning Disney-esque neo-gothic church. So if you are hoping to snap some pics, do so from one of the lookouts across the bridge.

The church's contrasting interior is as striking as its outside. You'll find typical religious symbols replaced with abstract shapes and bold colors. It's really quite beautiful.

To reach the church, catch the bus from Pasto to the nearby town of Ipiales, the town closest to the border with Ecuador. Then, catch a taxi to the valley's top and walk down to the church via the steep pedestrianized road. Alternatively, take the scenic cable car down to the church for unbeatable views.

Le Carnaval de Negros y Blancos

On January 2nd-7th of each year, Pasto hosts Le Carnaval de Negros y Blancos (Carnival of Blacks and Whites), a UNESCO-listed celebration famous as a symbol of racial unity. It is a celebration of community, tolerance, and respect.

The carnival dates back to the earliest days of Spanish rule, initially marking a day when slaves were given a day's holiday. Today it's integral to the culture and heritage of both Pasto and Colombia.

The festival has a designated 'black day' on January 5th and 'white day' on January 6th. In preparation for the celebration, local and national groups spend months preparing to take to the streets of Pasto in a riot of color and raucous parades.

In other parts of the world, elements of this festival would be frowned upon, with Pasto's residents painting their faces black and white for the designated days. Here though, this is a demonstration of unity and communion in ethnic and cultural differences.

When the party starts, the streets of Pasto become lined with floats created by local artists, intricate costumes, traditional dances, and local bands.

It's easy to see why the festival has captured people's hearts in a divided world.

Museo de Carnaval

Pasto’s Carnaval is incredible. But, not everyone's visit to Pasto will coincide.

If that's you, there is still Museo de Carnaval, a museum dedicated to the carnival, where you can learn about its history and traditions.

The museum is centrally located in Pasto. It features exhibitions showcasing costumes from past celebrations, past winners of the annual float contest, and more.

Visiting the museum is the perfect chance to learn more about what the carnival means to this city and its past, evolution, and traditions that endure today.

Laguna de la Cocha

Classed as being in Colombia's Amazonia region, Laguna de la Cocha is the second-largest water reserve in Colombia.

It takes just 30 minutes by collectivo to reach the Laguna from Pasto. With plenty to do, it's an excellent day trip away from the city.

El Encano

On the banks of Laguna de la Cocha, you'll find a small town dubbed Colombia's answer to Venice. That town is El Encano.

It's a comparison with substance. El Encano is littered with small bridges, brightly painted houses, and flowers everywhere.

El Encano is a town where everyone knows everyone. There are just 200 permanent families in residence. It's also the kind of place where every other house doubles as a restaurant. And they all serve the regional delicacy of freshly caught rainbow trout, cooked any number of ways.

You can book several activities from the town, including boat tours, kayaking, and hiking.

If enchanted by the town, you can make your day trip an overnight stop.

As a treat, we recommend the Swiss chalet-esque Hotel Sindamonoy. At 176,000 COP, this is a pricey option, but with rooms featuring a stunning lake view and the best restaurant in town, it's worth the expense.

Isla Corota

Welcome to Colombia's smallest national park. Isla Corota is accessible from El Encano via a 10-minute 20,000 COP boat ride.

Once you've disembarked on the tiny islet's shores, you'll need to head to the ranger's office to pay a small 1,000 COP entrance fee.

From there, the island is your oyster. Follow the wooden pathways throughout the island to discover 40 acres of virgin rainforest.

Isla Corota is home to approximately 500 species of plant, with those at the highest altitude resembling plants you'd find in Paramo ecosystems such as those in Los Nevada's National Park.

If you're feeling peckish, the island also has a good restaurant serving the same catch of the day every day: rainbow trout.

The entrance to Isla Corota closes at 5 PM. If you leave Pasto early enough, you should have plenty of time to arrive at the lake, explore El Encano, and have lunch before making your way to the islet.

Laguna Verde del Volcan Azufral

Laguna Verde is located two hours from Pasto amidst a breathtaking landscape, a shimmering emerald lake surrounded by three looming volcanos.

The three volcanos – Chiles, Cumbal, and Azufral – cause this lake's unique color, superheating the water to near boiling point in places.

To get to the lake, you have a couple of options. Whichever way you go about it, you'll start with a bus from Pasto to the village of Túquerres, costing 25,000 COP. After arriving at Túquerres, you have a decision to make. You could follow the dirt road from Túquerres, which leads you to the lake on a 12-kilometer hike. Alternatively, hire a taxi – costing 30,000 COP – to the village of Espino, from which you can begin a five-kilometer hike following the Cementario trail.

An early start isn't a requisite here. Wild camping in the surrounding area is possible. Just be sure to pack accordingly and check seismic activity before venturing out.

Whatever trail you pursue, it'll end at the top of Azufral volcano, overlooking Laguna Verde, about 100 meters below.

The viewpoint is a great place to snap some pics before heading toward the lake. Although the closer to the lake you get, the more you'll have to contend with the eggy smell of Sulfur.

The climb down to the lake is easy enough. Heading back up Azufral is a different beast to tackle; given that you're 4,000 meters above sea level, any uphill path is excruciating.

The park has been closed on and off due to the gross quantities of rubbish that visitors leave behind. Either way, check in on the park's status before heading out if you want to avoid being disappointed.

Parque Cañón de Juanambú

Set in Andean hills and accompanied by canyons and a vast river, Parque Cañon Juanambú is a historic place for the people of Colombia, particularly for the people of the Nariño department.

Long ago, when Simon Bolivar led his rebellion for independence against the Spanish, Pasto was one of the few places in Colombia to side with the crown. And with the city enjoying wealth amidst a major transport route between Quito and Bogotá, who can blame them?

In 1814, the army of Simon Bolivar and the joint forces of the Spanish crown and Pasto battled in the park, known as the Battle of Juanambú. The protracted conflict eventually saw the troops of Simon Bolivar retreat. Today, evidence of that famous conflict can be seen throughout Parque Cañon Juanambú, where many of the original trenches dug during the conflict remain.

The canyon and surrounding park are perfect for activities in the great outdoors, while the climate here is the healthiest in the world.

The park offers rappelling, hiking, trekking, bird watching, and canyoning. There is also the opportunity for kayaking and riding white-water rapids on the Juanambú running through the park.

After a hard day adventuring, you'll probably be looking to unwind. Juanambú is blessed with a selection of natural thermal springs, owing to its proximity to the Galeras, Azufral, and Doña Juana volcanos. Temperatures in the springs sit at a very pleasant 62ºF.

Should you be looking to extend your trip to Parque Cañon Juanambú overnight, there is a campsite to pitch up with your own tent.

Crossing the Border: Ecuador Awaits

We've already discussed Pasto as the town people stop at before crossing the border to Ecuador. Hopefully, in this travel guide, we've shown you enough for you to concur that Pasto warrants stopping for a couple of days. However, there is no getting away from the city's proximity to the border. With that in mind, here's the only guide you'll need to cross into Ecuador safely and efficiently.

The most common route of crossing into Ecuador is via the Rumichaca border, found just outside Ipiales. Due to its proximity, a pitstop at the nearby Las Lajas sanctuary is a hugely popular activity before crossing the border.

To begin your journey into Ecuador, you must leave Pasto via a bus to the town of Ipiales, a 2-hour trip that will cost you 10,000 COP. Ipiales itself has little to write home about. It's a little grotty and definitely not somewhere you want to hang around if you can avoid it.

From Ipiales, you have two options to reach the Rumichaca border. The first is to catch one of the regular shuttle buses taking you straight to the border for 2,500 COP. The second, safer, more comfortable option is to hail a taxi to make the 8,000 COP trip.

If opting for a taxi, you'll likely be dropped off in no man's land beyond the Colombian border. You must head back to the Colombian border and get your passport stamped.

Once you arrive at Colombia immigration to get your passport stamped, get rid of any loose pesos you have hanging around. There are plenty of places offering to change them into USD – the official currency of Ecuador. 

Currency changed; it's time to say your farewells to Colombia. Head to the entrance of the immigration office, where an officer will direct you to the correct line to wait in. Get your passport stamped with your departure date, and you're on the home straight to Ecuador. 

After officially leaving Colombia, make the five-minute walk across Rumichaca bridge to the Ecuadorian immigration office. Head inside and get your passport stamped. Entering Ecuador is free; you shouldn't need to supply proof of onward travel. However, always check for policy changes before you try to enter the country.

While this all sounds straightforward written down, leave yourself plenty of time to make the border crossing should any complications arise. 

We hope you loved your time in Colombia. It really is such a special country. Now, onwards. Otavaló, or perhaps Quito, awaits!

Hotel Koala Inn

Pasto's OG backpacker watering hole, Hotel Koala Inn, is based in an old colonial house near the town center.

A few minutes on foot from Plaza de Narino and Plaza del Carnaval, the hotel is ideally placed to wander around Pasto's most pleasant spots. Being a 30-minute walk from Pasto's bus terminal, it's also a great base from which you can explore the surrounding countryside.

The hotel doesn't arrange activities for guests. However, the English-speaking owners know Pasto and the surrounding countryside like the back of their hand. Be sure to tap them up for local knowledge and the chance to discover some hidden gems.

Regarding facilities, the hotel is basic, though several amenities will make your stay comfortable. An on-site coffee shop, an outdoor dining/lounge area, free WiFi, and a small library are among them.

The hotel offers 17 rooms all in, though there are no dorms. Instead, you'll have the luxury of a well-priced private room. There are also large privates for 'families,' great for those traveling in a group.

Private rooms for dual occupancy are priced at 25,000 COP, with rooms featuring a TV, a private bathroom, a desk, charging points, and in some cases, a mountain view.

Family privates are also well priced, costing a mere 55,000 COP. The family rooms feature everything that the smaller privates do. The only difference is that you'll have to share the bathroom with your roomies.

All guests at Hotel koala Inn also enjoy a free and delicious continental-style breakfast and coffee each morning.

Hotel Plaza Carnaval

There are few hostels in Pasto, meaning you may be forced into staying at a more traditional hotel. Hotel Plaza Carnaval is a hotel that falls under the luxury label. But hey, you did it. You got to the end of Colombia. You deserve a little luxury.

Located in the pleasant Plaza de Carnaval, Hotel Plaza Carnaval is an indulgence, perfect for those who only intend to stay in Pasto for a day or two before crossing the border into Ecuador.

As a more traditional hotel, don't expect any activities to be organized in the city or beyond. But on the flip side, the facilities available to guests here are a step above what you'd find elsewhere in town.

Hotel Plaza Carnaval boasts free WiFi, a sun-facing terrace, an indoor pool, a laptop safe, and a 24-hour front desk.

Being a conventional hotel, you won't find dorm rooms here. The rooms you will find are pricey. 

Double rooms, costing 140,000 COP per night, offer guests a private bathroom, a flat-screen TV, a safety deposit box, charging sockets, a desk, a telephone, air purifiers, a wardrobe, and daily housekeeping.

There is also a room comprised of three single beds for those traveling in a group, priced at 230,000 COP and featuring everything you'd find in the double room.

A continental breakfast is also available to guests at the hotel for a small fee.

Casa Hospedaje la Bohemia

One of the few proper hostels in Pasto, Casa Hospedaje la Bohemia is a welcome return to the familiar for backpackers intending to stay a little longer in Pasto.

Located amidst restaurants, bars, supermarkets, and excellent transport links, Casa Hospedaje la Bohemia is perfectly positioned to discover the best of Pasto and the surrounding Nariño department.

The hostel is a tranquil country house with excellent views of Pasto and the mountains beyond.

The hostel doesn't run any excursions per se. However, the city is on your doorstep, and owners Anthony and Monica are always eager to share their extensive knowledge of the area.

The hostel has a home-away-from-home feel and boasts all the facilities a backpacker could dream of within its brightly painted interior. Guests will enjoy free WiFi, an on-site bar-come-café, an outdoor terrace, a self-catering kitchen, luggage storage, and laundry facilities.

Compared to other hostels, Casa Hospedaje la Bohemia feels quaint, with room for only 15 guests across 6 rooms.

There are two dorm rooms at the hostel, one with room for five and the other for six. Both dorm rooms are priced at 29,000 COP. They feature a sitting area, a storage area, a mirror, and charging sockets.

In addition to the two dorm rooms, the hostel has four privates costing 75,000 COP. In terms of facilities, these rooms are just as well equipped. The only real difference is the extra space and privacy.

You might have noticed no mention of bathrooms within the rooms. That's because the hostel has opted to construct four communal bathrooms shared by all guests.

A hearty breakfast is also available to guests for a couple of thousand pesos.

La Merced

A one-stop shop for curing any food craving you can think of.

La Merced is a well-priced, well-loved institution in Pasto for the sheer variety of food it offers. And although it's a little far out from the center of town, making at least one trip during your time in Pasto is highly recommended.

Whether you're craving breakfast, lunch, dinner, or something in between, you'll find that La Merced's menu is stacked with options.

If you're heading to La Merced for breakfast, expect giant portions of deep-fried Colombian staples priced between 7,500 and 19,800 COP. If a full-on greasy breakfast doesn't take your fancy, omelets and fruit salads are also available.

You can choose between a staggering array of dishes for lunch and dinner, including regional classics, salads, soups, pasta, seafood, chicken, pork, beef, and more Americanised fast food favorites like pizza and burgers.

Generally speaking, meals cost around 20,000 COP, although some dishes cost as much as 85,000 COP.

If you're looking for something a little lighter, La Merced offers a bountiful selection of snacks and appetizers. If you're not feeling hungry, there is an excellent range of frappucinos and mocktails. The espresso here is some of the best in Pasto.

You can click here to view the full menu.

Mister Pollo

Pasto's answer to KFC, and a better one at that. Mister Pollo is an excellent value taste of home for many who have made the long, winding trip through Colombia.

Positioned just down the road from Plaza del Carnaval. The ambiance of Mister Pollo, inside and out, pays homage to the U.S. just as much as its cuisine.

As for the food, chicken dominates the menu, as you'd probably expect. But Mister Pollo also serves a range of pizzas, calzones, regional soups, and pasta dishes. Should you fancy something lighter, there is also a variety of salads, smoothies, and rice dishes.

Vegetarians reading this might wonder how they will find a decent meal in Pasto. But rest assured, despite the meat-themed menu, several very well-reviewed vegetarian options are available.

The food here is well priced, and a decent-sized meal could set you back as little as 13,600 COP, though it could be as expensive as 50,000 COP, depending on what you opt for.

While Mister Pollo makes for a great place to dine in, takeaway is an option if you want to take your grub back to the hostel.

El Migrante

One of Pasto's favorite joints, whether for a good meal or a drink, El Migrante specializes in upmarket contemporary cuisine at reasonable prices and is located about 15 minutes from Plaza del Carnaval.

The restaurant is a gastronomic highlight of the region. Pushing boundaries above and beyond the empanadas and Cuy typical of Pasto.

Inside, the restaurant treads the fine line of feeling upmarket but never pretentious, with many complimenting its cozy and laidback atmosphere.

Alongside Colombian staples, you'll also find a great seafood menu, a good selection of gourmet burgers, sumptuous desserts, and more. For the veggies amongst you, there is also a great range of dishes for your dietary requirements.

Starters here will cost you between 9,000 and 16,000 COP. Main meals are priced between 10,000 and 34,000 COP. A side to accompany your meal will cost an additional 6,000 COP. And after all that, should you have room, there are a couple of deserts priced between 6,000 and 8,000 COP.

As for drinks, El Migrante is renowned for its selection of local and international beers, its well-priced cocktails, and a good choice of South American wines.

A beer will cost between 6,000 and 9,000 COP, cocktails between 14,000 and 19,000 COP, while a bottle of wine will cost between 45,000 and 120,000 COP.

While the climate in Pasto is a little cooler than elsewhere in Colombia, it is consistent throughout the year. Average temperatures here vary between 20ºC and 22ºC. The region is also very humid, meaning it'll most likely feel hotter than it actually is throughout the year.

The weather varies quite a lot during the year. June to August is the one true dry season. While the rest of Colombia does see an earlier dry season between December and February, that difference is a mere 40 mm of rainfall per month. The later dry season is closer to a 120mm difference in precipitation.

If you do end up crossing through Pasto a little after the June-August dry season, the weather shifts dramatically. Rainfall increases significantly, and snow is not uncommon in the region – something that will feel totally alien after an extended period in Colombia's balmy climate.

We'd class Pasto as an off-the-beaten-path destination. Most who stop here only do so to cross the border into Ecuador the next day. Despite this, there is still a peak and low season for tourism. January, March, and May are when Pasto is busiest. However, this is likely to do with public holidays attracting domestic tourists rather than an influx of backpackers. In June, tourism falls off the face of the clip, and you can expect prices throughout Pasto to dip accordingly.

Being the quietest month of the year and enjoying fair weather with little rainfall, we'd pencil in June as the ideal time to visit Pasto. However, if you can only make it slightly later into the dry season, it's not the end of the world, as tourism will still be minimal.

Our Map Of Pasto & Las Lajas