San Agustín is tucked away in a gorge, surrounded by verdant countryside with a backdrop of the 1,500-kilometer Magdalena River.

From the outside, San Agustín and its 34,000 inhabitants are indistinct from most countryside spots in Colombia and far removed from the established Gringo Trail. There's not much to write home about. 

Out of town and in the countryside, though, now that's a different matter.

You'll find endless winding paths, towering waterfalls, and a raging river – all in one stunning valley. Yet, one part of this luscious Eden stands head and shoulders above the rest. A UNESCO World Heritage Site by the name of San Agustín Archeological Park.

The largest megalithic site in South America, the San Agustín Archeological Park is crammed with hundreds of mysterious monoliths, burial sites, and petroglyphs. Archeologists speculate that 90% of these 1600-year-old monuments remain undiscovered.

Next to nothing is known about the civilization that built the park's monoliths, not even their name or a written language. This adds to the mystery, allowing your mind to run wild at the possibilities. An increasingly rare commodity in today's day and age.

So, how does one get to San Agustín? For a small town, it's pretty well connected. From Bogotá, a direct ten-hour bus will cost 114,000 COP.

If heading to San Agustín after a stint in the Tatacoa Desert, you'll need to hail a collectivo departing Villavieja for Neiva. You can catch a direct bus from Neiva to San Agustín for 60,000 COP.

If arriving from Calí, your journey will cost 145,000 COP, with a bus change required at Popayan, Colombia's white city. From Calí, the journey is about seven and a half hours.

Disclaimer: This article may contain affiliate links, and we may earn a small commission should you use them, for which we are incredibly grateful. However, the recommendations are still our own and intended to advise on the very best experiences San Agustín has to offer.

Archaeological Sites

San Agustín's archeological sites are vast, spanning 250 kilometers. The archeological park has over 500 statues built between 1,600 and 1,900 years ago.

We can only aspire to look this good as we approach our second millennium. The statues are in remarkable condition, and their intricacy is stupefying. The figures depict both deities and mythical creatures presented in realistic and abstract styles.

Much of those who once called the site home have been lost. However, we know that they suddenly left around 1200 AD, centuries before the Spanish landed in South America. The ruins were then lost until 1756 when they were stumbled upon by a Spanish monk.

Over time, tidbits of these ancient peoples and their way of life have been revealed, both good and bad. We know that women were treated as equals, had an advanced grip of mathematics, and attempted complex surgeries – all the good stuff. We also know they were fond of human sacrifices and burning or burying people alive under the influence of hallucinogens – the not-so-great stuff.

From San Agustín, the archeological park is three kilometers away. If you're not inclined to walk the distance, a bus costs 1,200 COP. 

Opening hours are 8 AM until 4 PM every day bar Tuesday. The park is well put together, with an on-site museum, five well-marked statue zones, a waterway, and several well-marked walking paths.

You'll need to cough up 50,000 COP for entrance to the archeological park. Once purchased, your ticket will cover admission for two days.

Entrance ticket paid for, you'll have a three-way choice to make. Your first option is to explore the archeological site independently, a cheap option though you'll learn nothing. Your second option is to recruit a local guide past the park entrance; a guide will charge you between 60,000 and 70,000 COP. Finally, your third option is several hours of horse riding accompanied by a knowledgeable local guide, priced at 95,000 COP.

It won't be a problem if you prefer to let your imagination run amock and explore the archeological park on your own. The paths in the park are very easy to follow.

Whatever you decide, there are three sites you should be aiming to stop at.

Parque Arqueológico

Parque Arqueológico is one of the main sites, alongside Alto de Los Ídolos. To really soak up the history of the place, Parque Arqueológico is a must-stop.

Shortly after passing the park entrance, you'll encounter a small museum. In the museum, you'll see a collection of smaller statues. There is also an assortment of pottery, utensils, and jewelry recovered from numerous burial sites.

After stopping in the museum, it's time to explore the park properly. Your first stop should be the Forest of Statues, a seven-hundred-meter collection of 130 monoliths. After admiring the statues on this trail, you'll do a short climb to the funeral hills – a collection of pristine burial sites.

To the side of the burial sites is Fuente la Pavastas, a complex arrangement of lizards, serpents, and humanoid figures carved into the bedrock of terraced pools. Archeologists believe the pool was used for bathing and worshipping aquatic deities.

Alto de Los Ídolos

Further on from Parque Arqueológico, on the right bank of the River Magdalena, Alto de Los Ídolos is one of the two most important sites in the San Agustín Archeological Park.

Here you'll find fewer statues. However, they're considered the best-preserved of any in the park. Notably, Alto de Los Ídolos is home to the biggest statue in the park, standing seven meters tall – though only four meters of the carving is above ground.

There are also some well-preserved tombs and sarcophagi to examine at Alto de Los Ídolos.

La Chaquira

La Chaquira is a small spot not far from the two main sites. Here you'll find towering deities carved into a rockface overlooking the gorge of the Rio Magdalena.

Nearby, there are a couple of other small sites. However, if you've passed Parque Arqueológico and Alto de Los Ídolos, there isn't a lot there that you haven't already seen.

White Water Rafting on Estrecho del Magdalena

Archeology is the dominating attraction to San Agustín. But there's plenty of adventure to be had here. About an hour from town is El Estrecho, the narrowest point of the Magdalena River. It's also a sweet spot for white water rafting. The activity is a welcome change of pace after exploring the archeological park.

For those who are nervous about navigating rapids, fear not. The rapids are graded between class two and class four in their difficulty, meaning that even a novice should be able to enjoy themselves without worrying about their safety.

We strongly recommend Magdalena Rafting, a reputable operator in these parts, if you're looking for a tour.

With Magdalena Rafting, you'll depart from San Agustín at around 8 AM to reach the river at 9 AM. Once on the water, you'll navigate 21 kilometers of class three and four rapids.

The tour lasts five hours, with three and a half hours spent on the water. It's pricey by Colombia's standards, costing 150,000 COP. But for a solid half-day of fun, it's well worth it.

Zip-lining with Adrenaline Extrema Cañon del Magdalena

This blood-pumping activity is just a few kilometers from town and near many of the most popular hostels. Many hostels will arrange the activity for you.

With Adrenaline Extrema Cañon del Magdalena, you can hop on a 600-meter zip-line across the Magdalena Canyon, soaring 300 meters above the raging river below.

For a quick minute of fun, it is expansive, costing 30,000 COP. But still, a lot of fun while it lasts.

Cascada los Tres Chorros

This 30-meter waterfall is found 23 kilometers from San Agustín. The path that takes you to the waterfall is accessible by vehicle or horse.

The waterfall is pretty special. Its crest is split by two islands, resulting in three separate cascades plummeting into the pool below.

Many hostels will offer guided tours to the waterfall, though not all cover the 2,000 COP entrance fee.

To reach the waterfall, you must follow a path called La Pradera, which is 20 kilometers down the road from San Agustín.

Once you reach this path, walking to the waterfall will take about 45 minutes. Following the well-marked trail, you'll reach the Mulales River. From there, all you have to do to get to the waterfall is follow the river bank.

Make no mistake, the water at the waterfall's base is chilly but makes for a great dip once you've finished hiking.

Cascada Salto de Bordones

Part of the Puracé national park and sitting on the border of three municipalities, Salto de Bordones is the second-highest waterfall in Colombia, standing over 400 meters tall.

Reaching the waterfall from San Agustín is easy. First, you'll need to catch a bus heading towards Isnos – a 20-minute journey costing 5,000 COP. From Isnos, hail a cab for the rest of the journey. The taxi will cost 20,000 COP. You'll reach the waterfall in 35 minutes.

Once there, there are two options to explore. The first follows the ridge along to the top of the waterfall. You can stand to the side and admire the torrent cascading into the gorge below. A more scenic option is to descend into the valley, following an ecological trail for 45 minutes to the waterfall's base. You'll encounter verdant scenery with coffee plants, mandarin trees, banana trees, and abundant wildlife on the way.

Fully exploring the waterfall will take around two hours, making for a pretty good afternoon in the great outdoors.

Masaya San Agustín

Masaya is a new hostel in a breathtaking locale, perched on a three-hectare site at the summit of a gorge overlooking the Magdalena River. The hostel is a little removed from town, though it is only five minutes away by taxi.

The hostel defines itself as an ecolodge. It features cabin-style rooms, a giant Maloca acting as the property's centerpiece, and buildings that take design cues from the region's indigenous community.

The Maloca is the hub of all activity at Masaya. Here, organized tours depart, meals are served, drinks are downed, and grub is prepared at the state-of-the-art self-catering kitchen. You'll also find workspaces, a library, a cinema room, a 24-hour reception, a chill-out area, and a games area fitted with pool and ping pong tables.

Outside of the Maloca, there is a terrace overlooking the river below. The terrace has a jacuzzi, outdoor furniture, hammocks, bbq facilities, and a firepit.

Guests also benefit from WiFi throughout the property, laundry facilities, a dry cleaning service, and baggage storage.

Masaya's restaurant is stunning, delighting guests with gourmet meals lovingly made with natural, locally sourced ingredients.

Breakfast costs between 10,000 and 18,000 COP.

Snacks to see you through from breakfast to dinner cost between 7,000 and 18,000 COP. The veggie wrap, in particular, is delicious and will delight even the most ardent carnivores.

Dinner costs between 17,000 and 42,000 COP. The Mediana, despite being the most expensive dish on offer, is a must-try for meat lovers. This meat feast includes beef, pork, chicken, chorizo, creole potato, patacones, arepas, lemon peel, tomato paste sauce, garlic mayo, and house salsa. Yum.

At the bar, you'll find just about any alcoholic beverage you could imagine. Cocktails are available from 15,000-35,000 COP, beers are 5,000 to 10,000 COP, and a bottle of wine is 80,000 COP. Spirits are available by the bottle and can cost between 100,000 and 300,000 COP. There is also a daily happy hour between 6 PM and 8 PM.

Masaya is also an excellent base for arranging tours to many of the area's must-visit sites. Here you can book an expedition to the archeological site, rafting on the Magdalena River, and waterfall tours. Masya also runs yoga classes, cooking classes, horseback countryside tours, and cycling tours.

As for the accommodation, dorms and an ensemble of private quarters are at your disposal. Whichever room you opt for, it'll feel like staying in a boutique hotel more than a hostel.

Dorm rooms, priced at 40,000 COP, are built to sleep six. Each room features its own bathroom. In addition, you'll get privacy curtains, a reading light, a locker, and electrical sockets.

There are three varieties of private rooms available. All rooms accommodate two and are priced between 170,000 and 320,000 COP.

The standard private is the cheapest, priced at 170,000 COP. For your money, you'll get a 25-square meter room featuring a private bathroom, a queen-size bed, a sofa, and a terrace that you'll share with a neighboring cabin.

A step up from the standard private is the 'Superior' private rooms, priced at 190,000 COP. Strangely, the superior privates are smaller than the standard ones, at just 15 square meters. Aside from that, the big difference between this room and the standard one is a terrace all to yourself.

Finally, there's the mountain view suite priced at 320,000 COP. This is the Crème de la crème of rooms at Masaya. The room is built over two floors and spans thirty square meters. The room features a social area, a king-size bed upstairs, a private jacuzzi, a private bathroom, a separate toilet closet, a private terrace, and a smart TV.

Hotel Casa de Nelly

Casa de Nelly is 1.4 kilometers from San Agustín. While that distance is walkable, a cab from town will only cost 5,000 COP.

The hostel is just twenty minutes from San Agustín's archeological park entrance.

Surrounded by countryside with mountains nestled in the distance, the atmosphere is tranquil and relaxed, setting the scene for a home away from home.

The hotel is well stocked with amenities. You'll find outdoor social areas with a fireplace, furniture, and hammocks. There is also a communal kitchen for preparing meals and an ecological path that winds down to the Magdalena River.

Guests will also benefit from free WiFi, laundry facilities, and friendly multilingual staff that speak English, German, and Spanish.

There is also an on-site restaurant-come-bar, not to mention BBQ facilities that see frequent use. The restaurant serves breakfasts, lunch, and dinner inspired by regional and international cuisine with fresh, organic ingredients. Meals at the restaurant are well worth the extra pesos.

Breakfast is not included in the price of your stay. However, it's hard to complain when it costs just 7,000 COP for bread, granola, eggs, coffee, and fresh juice.

For lunches and dinner, meals cost around 20,000 COP. Paying for dinner is recommended. All meals are served at a large dining table which adds to the sociable, communal atmosphere throughout the hostel.

Casa de Nelly also facilitates excursions to the surrounding area. Bicycle hire costs just 25,000 COP per day. They can also take you on a tour of the archeological park for 50,000 COP, visit La Chaquira, or arrange a rafting expedition for 65,000 COP.

Dormitory and private rooms are both available at Casa de Nelly.

Dorms are four-bed, with mixed and female-only rooms available for 25,000 COP. Guests staying in dorm rooms will have access to a shared bathroom with complimentary toiletries, a mountain view from a terrace, a sofa for relaxing, and a safety deposit box for valuables.

Private rooms are priced between 65,000 and 140,000 COP, with three different configurations available, accommodating two to three people.

The cheapest private room is 65,000 COP. The room is 12 square meters and features a double bed, a shared bathroom, a terrace with views of the mountains, a sofa, and a safety deposit box.

A step up from this is another private room for two, priced at 90,000 COP. The only differences are that you'll have access to a private ensuite bathroom, and the room is significantly larger at 40 square meters.

Finally, priced at 140,000 COP is a triple room. Perfect for those traveling with friends, this room features a double and single bed. You'll also have an ensuite bathroom to share between the three of you, a private balcony overlooking San Agustín and the mountains beyond, a sofa, and a safety deposit box.

Tomate Restaurante Vegetariano

Genuinely good veggie food is hard to come by in Colombia. So, when we come across one, we sing their praises – Tomate Restaurante Vegetariano is just such a restaurant.

Based on Calle 5 in San Agustín, the German-owned restaurant is near the town center.

The restaurant's menu changes daily, so there's always something new to tantalize your taste buds. However, one thing that does remain the same is a commitment to using fresh, locally sourced ingredients throughout the menu.

You'll typically find the restaurant open from lunch until 2 PM. Though the restaurant has been known to run out of food long before. If you intend to visit, get there as early as possible to avoid disappointment.

The restaurant often being out of food before closing time is a testament to the quality that runs throughout their menu. But that quality doesn't come with a trade-off on price. Instead, the restaurant offers unbeatable value for money in San Agustín.

If you arrive for lunch, you'll be able to secure a soup starter, a hearty main, and a fresh juice-based drink for just 8,000 COP.

Altos de Yerbabuena Café Restaurante

Altos de Yerbabuena is another loved restaurant in San Agustín. You can find the restaurant on a hillside along the path to the archeological park from town.

On your way into the restaurant, you'll notice a small organic vegetable garden, the produce of which is used in your meals. The restaurant has a cozy authentic feel, while the sheltered outdoor seating is chic and charming.

The food here offers a solid mix of authentic Colombian cuisines, such as trout – which is abundant in this region, and international dishes from steak and chips to pasta.

The restaurant also has a reputation for serving up killer coffees and a great wine list.

For veggies and vegans, you'll be delighted to discover that Altos de Yerbabuena offers a mix of meals for those with dietary requirements. Even if something on the menu doesn't meet your needs, the restaurant owners will be more than happy to adapt the dish for you.

Eating here, you can expect local dishes, such as trout, to cost between 25,000 and 40,000 COP. Meat dishes, including steak and pork loin, will cost between 28,000 and 35,000 COP. While pasta dishes are priced between 25,000 and 45,000 COP.

Sitting at 1,800 meters above sea level and being surrounded by hills, the weather in San Agustín is quite changeable. A tropical monsoon climate prevails, and temperatures are chillier than in other parts of Colombia.

Year-round temperatures average between 16 and 22ºC, while the dry seasons are from December to February and July to August. It's not the end of the world if you can't plan your visit to San Agustín around the dry seasons. The town reports just 40 dry days per year, so showers are expected whenever you visit.

Peaks in tourism don't exist here. San Agustín is still "off the beaten path.". The town and its surrounding treasures remain undiscovered to most of the world. Even if it were busy, many attractions, like the archeological park, set a limit on daily visitors.

Ideally, we'd be looking towards January when planning our stop in San Agustín. The first month of the year sees more days of sunshine than any other, precipitation is less than in other months, and average temperatures are a pleasant 20ºC.

Our Map Of San Agustín, Colombia